Showing posts with label banana pancake trail. Show all posts
Showing posts with label banana pancake trail. Show all posts

12.24.2009

Lek's Elephant Nature Camp! - Chiang Mai, Thailand


Happy Holidays!!! We are in full relaxation mode here in Auburn, AL, we got back to the states a few days ago, and we've been busy updating the blog. I can't believe this was only a week ago.

After Louang Prabang, we sold our bikes, and got back in the bus... all the way to Pai. A very relaxed place in N. Thailand... a very different feel from S. Thailand btw (and cheaper to boot). A small town, but a big destination for those following the banana pancake trail. We suffered the bus ride with Miriam, rented scooters (2$ a day!), went to a few yoga sessions, and took a cooking class. That's Kimbo, Tee, and Meee

But on this entry I want to bring awareness to a situation that most folks probably don't know about... we certainly didn't... and as the traveller I feel the obligation to spread awareness... that sorta off-sets our carbon footprint right? (at least in a karmic way, I trust)

And it has to do with the Asian Elephant... and who doesn't like Elephants... I mean they may not be not as cool as monkeys (debatable), but definitely more than kangaroos or koalas.

We visited Elephant Nature Park (another great recommendation by the Dirt Cricket...) just north of Chiang Mai. And we had no idea, but Asian Elephants are in need of some serious rehab.

Here's the basic problem... Elephants were domesticated for use in the farming and logging industry. There were an estimated 100,000 domesticated elephants in 1900. Today there are only 3,000 domestic elephants remaining with another 500-1,500 estimated in the wild!!! There are numerous issues, but a major one is that logging became illegal now (a good step as it created massive landslides... and also destroyed habitat for wild elephants... the domesticated elephants were destroying the wild elephant's habitat).



So many elephants were out of a job. And many Mahouts (the elephant keeper) had no choice but to abandon their elephant or to take them to the streets to go beg... (yeah, seriously... see the video from National Geo link below).

Many of the abandoned elephants foraged for food in the near by farm. Most folks in Thailand are still farmers... meaning they depend solely on their single crop yield for their annual income. And the abandoned domesticated elephants, who don't know how to survive in the wild ate their single source of income for the year. It's like placing all your eggs in one basket and a hungry elephant came and made a big 'ole omelet... you'd be angry too... but quite often these elephants were killed by farmers.

The Elephant Nature Park was started by Sangduen "Lek" Chailert. Quite an inspirational lady, she's devoted her whole life to saving elephants. She's received a lot of press the past few years and was one voted one of Asia's Heroes in 2005 by Time magazine. Read more about here here if you are interested.

I encourage y'all to check out this short (20 min?) National Geographic Video (if you have decent internet connection) it features Lek and explains some of the problems associated with Domesticated Elephants in present day Thailand. We saw the full video, but you get the jist of the problems.

On a one day visit to the Elephant Nature Park, you get to feed the elephant, bath them, and learn a lot about them from your guide and some documentaries they show during your visit. You can also spend multiple nights there (there are nice accommodations), as well as volunteer or intern for longer. There were many volunteers at the park, from kids just out of college to families. There's always work to be done, as elephants can eat to 150-170 kg a day.... and that's a LOT of bananas + foraging.

Check out their tooth!

Every elephant in the park has a story... from saving orphaned elephants or famished elephants who have been left by their mahout. There are two babies in the park currently, and another one on its way. The pregnant mother had a part of it's back leg blown off after stepping on a land mine.


This girl is blind after having her eyes stabbed by a mahout who got frustrated after she refused to work... 2 days after her newborn baby died. An older female elephant decided to take her under and now they're inseparable.

On top of her 34 rescued elephants, Lek has come to adopt many cows, over 50 dogs, 10+ cats so the place is a heaven for animal lovers.

Visiting the Elephant Nature Park was a highlight for us on the trip. I think it's a must visit for anyone headed to Chiang Mai.

12.14.2009

Vang Vienging it...


Vang Vieng is a crazy place. Word has it that after the tsunami hit S. Thailand... Ko Phi Phi and other S. Thai party island moved some of the party scene to this small, dramatic place in the middle of Lao.

So if you are looking to party in Vang Vieng, party hard... and do it right. If you are looking for a mellower scene, just avoid the party spots (very easy to do) and stay in a chilled out guesthouse. But don't try to do both... you'll get annoyed at the partyers... or the non-partyers.

Enjoying sunset from our rooftop terrace moments after check in.


The next day, after visiting the rope swings (see last post), we went further north up to a cave with a river running through it.


You spelunk with inner tubes and follow a rope to the end... quite enjoyable...


One (among the many) thing Vang Vieng is known is that it's a very comfortable place to have a hangover (and I'd say most folks here experience a few)... with so many loungy cafes serving fruit juices with the TV playing "Friends: reruns... although our guesthouse refused to play Friends...


This is what Funk looked like 80% of the time...


Awww


The next morning, Funk and I decided to run-off that haziness in our heads with a nice trail run around town... there are many make-shift bridges in Vang Vieng...


And many smaller ones over smaller creeks


...


There's a fee on some of the bridges... like this one... but we didn't have any $$$.. but we were running anyway... so we just ran...


Later that day, we scootered around the area looking for caves, mountains to hike, or swimming holes to discover. This is Jasper's first ever stream crossing on Nice.


And found a cool cave.


With the biggest cave-spider I've ever seen!


The next morning... after a suggestion from Fred, we headed up to this lookout. Which he describes as the "the apotheosis of Zen"... and we fully agree.


Not a bad view egh?


Look Fred! We made it!!! (It's a little better res after you click on it...)




You'll have to ask Funk about this pic... I'll let him tell the story.


More monkeys! This one lives at one of the bars at the rope swing area... kinda sad really... and pretty mangy looking.


After enough caves, tubing, rope swinging, and trail running... we decided to leave town. Here's Kim's potatos and cheese for brekky... woohoo


Our parting shot with Jasper. He took a bus to Vientiane, a flight to Bangkok, a flight to Phuket, then to Seoul, and Seattle, then home... phew. I'm sure he appreciated the shot. The Woodford's was a Funk item. Although he only brought a very small day pack, he made room for the Woodfords... priorities.

In the Tubin' - Vang Vieng


Throughout SE Asia, you'll see the "In the Tubing - Vang Vieng" shirts. And what that means is... we went tubing... got dropped off by a tuk-tuk 4 km N of town... and before we even hit the water we were handed free shots of Lao Lao, going off rope swings, zip lines, having a few more free shots, water slides, mud-wrestling, playing beach volleyball, and after a few more free shots you made it 300 m down river and the sun has already set behind the mountains. Now you're in a bargaining battle with a tuk-tuk driver who is charging 10x the cost of you getting there... but in your inebriated state you think it's a good deal....

Bars on both sides... those are rope swing poles that you see sticking up.


A typical bar... most folks (over 90%) I'd reckon just catch a tuk tuk up, and down... rather than tube down the cold river in the dark.

The first time we went up, we were at the first bar (with the biggest rope swing) and only stayed a short time as we wanted to visit some caves up north of the tubing.

But did it enough to try this before leaving...


The second time we went... we stayed most of the afternoon, and had a blast.

Here's a simple back...


Then the front...


Here's Funk


...trust me he wasn't trying to do this...


And Jasper


What a guy....


Kimbo's getting crazy wit it..

11.24.2009

Cambodia part deux... PP


Cambodia is a very emotional place... or at least it was for us. We had some great laughs with fellow travellers and the locals (who always seem to be smiling).

The first think most folks think when you say Cambodia is Angkar Wat (it's even on the Cambodian flag)... ... but the next thought is about the tragedy of the Khmer Rouge. To pay our respects to the victims and to learn a bit more about it we visited S-21 prison and the Killing Fields in Phenom Penh. I don't have the the heart to convey the atrocities that occurred throughout the country during Pol Pot's regime, but it was a sobering reminder that a totalitarian authority of any kind can be a very slick slope towards corruption and evildoing .

A small portion of the list of names whose lives were taken by Pol Pot.


Cambodian School Bus...


The one and only road biker we saw in Cambodia. He passed our Tuk-Tuk.






Mekong urinal.


... didn't get Kimbo's approval for these pics so you should look quick before it gets taken down...


Devouring a Dragon Fruit.


We asked the chef if we could sample some Red Ant... turned out to be Yellow... which was disappointing... and it was really gross.


We're in the land of serving cold beer on ice.


Cambodian roads were quite hazardous from the little that we saw. Not only did we pass this over turned tar truck (the bus driver had to get out and get the tar off the tires 50 m after passing this). We passed a few more minor accidents... and a store that was literally blowing up. It was on fire... and something exploded and hit the side of the bus. Amazingly I slept through it all...

11.21.2009

Angkar Wat



...ok back to SE Asia. If you are lost on our blog... we went to Nepal for October... then back to Bangkok and flew to Phuket in S. Thailand. Did some climbing (Rai leh), and visited some beaches (Ko Phi Phi, Ko Lanta), and back to Bangkok to get my new Japanese passport and Lao visas. Then through Cambodia, and up to Lao...

Taking the train to the Cambodian border.


Then a tuk-tuk to the border....


Cambodian's were scooter crazy compared to Thai


Another bus ride, a quick snooze, and we're at Angkar Wat for sunrise before we knew it.


The only farang (foreigner) we've seen with a mosquito net on his head the entire trip...


Monkeys!!!


Gotta have a handstand pic at every major ruin.


Many of the stairs are really, really steep... they say that this is so that you have to use your hands and so you respect the Angkar gods as you approach.


Many many faces of Bayon


Angkar's unique co-habitation with the jungle is what draws many of the visitors.


The size of this place is daunting...


And many sites are still under excavation.


The intricate details on every temple, every pillar is astonishing.










Here's where EVERYONE goes for sunset... looks nice right? A beautiful sunset, in an exotic country, at a famous ruin....


To share with a thousand others...


... ok, we'll catch you up a bit more later.